Cannes DO
May 22, 2009
The week… how to describe it? Where to start. Well, I figure you all want the glam. Right? Well it wasn’t all glam. It was a lot harder than I thought it would be. The deeper I go into this business the more respect I have for the producer. Which I am not.
But you all want the glam…. Am I right?
I’ll give it a try.
There was a fairly glam night where I managed a few invites to the China Night party. We even got escorted into the VIP tent. The food was amazing, the drinks flowed. I got told off for trying to serve myself from the champagne bucket when the waiter was momentarily absent. “We have a notion of service here still” he airly told me. “You mean, like in all the stations and shops all over France..?” I retort. He bursts out laughing. After that, he practically follows me around. Even out to the beach where I go to steal a quiet moment and watch the sunset. What a warm frisson of chic it was when he tackled the sand in his tuxedo and polished shoes to top off my glass from a crisp fresh bottle. “Now THAT’s service! Merci!” I smile coquettishly. “The pleasure is entirely mine” he coos…
In a way this party was too, how to say, proper to be a ton of fun. I was looking for something a bit more… well, frenchly hedonistic. Something more exclusive. A place to wear my backless skimpy long black gown. Instead we went home early. I had a long day of work ahead of me. But you guys don’t really want to hear about the work do you?
You want glam glam glam… right? Well, I needed someone on the inside to provide it for you.
My old film school friend was in town and thanks to him I saw what Cannes is all about. All my Hong Kong homies reading this: be warned. When he comes to Hong Kong we are pulling out all the stops.
He is a well-known French director and had a film to screen as an avant premiere but he managed to find time to hang out and he got me all the invites I dared ask him for. And he did it quietly, with French grace and subtlety. Going to his screening with him was such a gas. The film was excellent and the full house turned away a long line of people trying to get in. The distributors and foreign buyers were happy. He is going to do well with it. I don’t know how, but he managed to film for 18 weeks with a cast of children and got wonderful fresh performances from all of them. I left him to do his thing with his team and figured that would be the last I saw of him.
Ah but lucky me. The next night he had tickets to a screening of Agora. Invite only. ‘Is this going to be black tie and red carpet?” I asked hopefully. “Oh yes!” he assured me. “… meet me at the corner of the Criossette and rue des Serbes at 10:10 tonight. We have to be in by 10:15 or they close”
Well, I was excited enough not to hear that they ‘close’ but also excited enough that I was already watching the clock to make it in time from the minute he told me about it at seven. I had to meet my friends for dinner and then get back to the house to get dressed and then get back into town in time to meet him. I knew it was possible, but I let my friends know right away I would be sticking to schedule and I couldn’t be late.
Robert says: Men plan, God laughs.
Joana and Robert meet me and we decide to go into Juan les Pins to eat. Right away nervous I say: you sure we have time? I want to get back in time to get ready properly. “Ahhhh!!!! You are not going to stress us out all dinner are you?!?” I get immediately reprimanded. “You will be on time for your thing!... let’s enjoy the night!!!”
What can I say? These are my good friends. They have been waiting all day for me, every day, to finish working. They are taking care of me in Cannes and always take care of me. I want to be with them, but I cannot stop thinking about getting to the red carpet on time.
The drive into Juan-les-pins is gorgeous. I try to look at the stunning landscape but I am busy calculating how long the drive is to be able to get us moving in the opposite direction at the right time when we have to leave.
Cap d’Antibes. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous…. Jo wants to try to find a restaurant she remembers eating at when she was a little girl. Something about whole fish cooked in a crust of salt and a hammer. Sure sounds good. Tick tick tick tick
After driving all over the hills, the gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous hills, up and down streets she thinks might be it, we finally decide to stop at the restaurant we saw when we first hit this part of the peninsula. Not much choice really, we only have an hour to eat now. Robert is treating. We look good. The soon to set sun is gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous. Tick tick tick…
The restaurant, as we enter, is clearly the kind of restaurant you don’t rush through. It is a once in a lifetime restaurant. Really. Its clean perfect lines and simplicity do not hide its utter and absolute high-class design and the air of ‘filthy rich’ flutters petulantly on the sea breeze that wafts the splendid terrace where we are seated. “Don’t you want to check the menu?” I had asked… now I am also nervous that Robert has no idea what he is getting himself into. We are talking the Cote D’Azur yacht crowd. “No, we are fine here...” he says . Tick tick tick tick tick
“Shall we just take one course?” I attempt… a slight look from both of them. “Okay… “ I say “I wont say another word, but I cannot be late”. They both put down the menu and look at me; Jo says ‘I swear, you wont be late, I will make sure of it- now relax and enjoy the meal!”
Eight thirty. Tick tick tick
First course: I have fois gras en terrine. It has an amazing touch of a very very thin spiral of something salty and sweet rising from it as though it is a slab of cake with a fairy candle on top. Unbelievably delicious. The task of choosing the wine (we are having WINE!?! Shit shit shit shit) had been handed to me, by the waiter actually when I disagreed with my friend’s first choice. It really wasn’t going to work with the meal, I wasn’t being snobby. I chose a white burgundy (love these wines in general) It is fine. Whew.
Nine ten, second course arrives. We have taken whole fish with accompanying everything. I would describe how delicious it all is. But I am too nervous about the time and trying to not spoil the evening. It is become almost like a high wire act.
Nine thirty. Dessert arrives.
Nine forty five. “Should we get coffee?” they ask. This is too much for me.
“How exactly do you suggest that I shower and dress in formal clothes AND get back to the croissette by 10:10?” I manage to make it almost sound normal, but I think the stress is starting to show.
Nine fifty we leave the restaurant. I am so angry I cannot speak.
“I promise you will be on time!” I am told. ‘How is that possible? I already will have to dress in the car and I am already late!” now my voice is rising. “well, you want to yell… go on, just yell!” jo says it so kindly, so lovingly… I can only manage a loud and bitchy “I TOLD you Damn IT!”
Now lolo is calling from where he is waiting for me. I manage to get into the house and out with my shoes and dress on in under three minutes. I almost forget underwear. I try to do some makeup in the car. There is no hope of trying to cover my ugly pimple now. I have forgotten to bring a bag. I will have to carry my dirty everyday wallet in my hand. I have completely forgotten jewelry. I am beyond angry now. I don’t know what I am. I tell lolo to go without me. He says okay but I get the feeling he will wait.
Ten fifteen. We hit the city of Cannes. “See!” says Jo ‘I told you we would make it’ as she says it the street we turn into is blocked by traffic. She sucks in her breath… now even she can see I am not going to make it. I kind of want to cry, but I am too concentrated on how to make it, how am I going to make it….
Ten twenty, she has done several dangerous and illegal moves to get me as close as possible. I jump out and without closing the door start running, 1950’s heroine style, through the crowded streets. I ignore lolo’s texts. I can see him down the street in his tux looking for me… almost there almost..
I run up – “…you brought your badge.. right?...” He asks.. Of course I haven’t. He is so gracious about it. I take his arm and he hurries me past security and paparazzi and suddenly, magically we are on the red carpet. The cast and crew of the film are just arriving behind us. We will make it up the steps just before them- the last ones before they shut the carpet down for their photographs. On each side of us is a thick wall of photographers. I have no time to adjust my wrap. I look sloppy. Never mind, they are not interested in us- the stars are coming behind us. And then, half way up the steps my friend is recognized and announced… ‘smile!’ he says as pics are snapped “wow… “ … is all I can manage …
When I say it was magic to be there I am not exaggerating. When I say the feeling in the cinema was electric as the stars entered it is true. The whole audience turns inwards towards where they are sitting and applaud in a manner that is at the same time respectful and supportive. I swear it is a kind of love.
I wish everyone felt like this about cinema.
The movie is imperfect but I don’t care. I try not to shift too much in my chair but I am so cold, and I keep almost burping because I was so upset while eating -the food has obviously not gone down all that well… not very lady like!!! I fight the desire to pull my legs up underneath me.
Two and a half hours of epic film later and I get treated to the after party. My god, this man has invites to everything! A friend of his joins us, I like her immediately. I suggest we go dancing. “I don’t’ dance” states lolo… ‘oh but you will!’ I counter. His friend says: “we are going to have a good time with this one!” He pouts a bit: ‘ I have to get up in the morning’, I have a plane to catch and work to do….” … yeah yeah yeah…..We ignore him. After the after party is the after club party…. It is two am, it feels like ten pm. Does Anyone pay for drinks in this town????. The club is packed. All VIP. For real. No need to name drop, they are all here.
…
The night will continue. And dance we will. I won’t even have to push it! My backless dress will not be the best for this kind of thing but I won’t care. I don’t think anyone does. Lolo will eventually make his plane and I will end up with a choice between a black and white t shirt and a trek home on the city bus in the morning in my gown carrying my shoes in my hand while everyone nods admiringly. I have had my amazing Cannes night out.
Now: are you not entertained!!????







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